Hulleys’ Closure - My Thoughts

Ever since purchasing my first Peak District timetable book—produced by Derbyshire County Council and covering the summer of 1992—I’ve been fascinated by the bus firm Hulleys of Baslow, founded by Henry Hulley in 1921. Eight years later, while studying at Sheffield Hallam University in the evenings, I was fortunate enough to drive buses around the Peak District National Park and the Derbyshire Dales, though not for Hulleys themselves.

Like my local operator, Delaine Buses, Hulleys has always been a constant presence; only tortoises can recall a time when Hulleys didn’t exist. But from this Wednesday (26 March 2025), Hulleys will close its doors for good.

I write this article in frustration at not having done so last year, when I travelled twice with Hulleys on Service 173 (Castleton–Bakewell). On both occasions, the bus was over 20 minutes late. During the second journey, the Optare Solo’s saloon heaters were stuck on full blast, and the driver’s limited grasp of English meant he couldn’t respond when I asked for the heating to be switched off. The result: my daughter was sick everywhere.

I had considered writing a ‘What’s Happened to Hulleys?’ piece, but chose not to, as the company’s enthusiastic online following didn’t reflect my own experience. Or at least, not publicly. While the following piece might not read as a glowing tribute, it is written with respect—though with accuracy.

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Hulleys of Baslow, a Derbyshire bus company operating since 1921, has announced it will cease operations, ending over a century of service​. The company’s closure follows a series of setbacks in recent years, ranging from operational difficulties to financial strains. Local communities in the Peak District are bracing for the impact, as Hulleys’ buses have provided vital links between rural villages and towns such as Chesterfield, Bakewell and Sheffield for more than a century. The decision to shut down comes on the heels of a major loss of service contracts and an ill-fated expansion attempt, leaving residents concerned about future transport options and officials scrambling to fill the gap​.

Reliability Issues and Lost Contracts

Hulleys’ decline has been largely attributed to chronic reliability problems on its routes. Derbyshire County Council (DCC) recently found Hulleys to be “continually unreliable” – with buses often missing portions of routes and leaving passengers stranded​. Complaints had piled up throughout 2023: one local councillor recounted how children were repeatedly left “marooned in the cold, wet and dark” by unpredictable services​, and a mother with a baby waited over two hours for a no-show bus​. Last week, DCC announced it was stripping Hulleys of four subsidised routes (covering services to Ashbourne, Bakewell, Castleton, Chesterfield, Clay Cross, Matlock and Wirksworth) “after a long period of reliability and service issues”​. This decisive action would cut Hulleys’ network in half, from ten routes down to just 5. 

Councillors stressed they did not take the decision lightly but had “no choice” after exhausting efforts to help the operator improve​. “It is not acceptable for passengers to be left at bus stops missing vital appointments… which has been the case,” said Cllr Charlotte Cupit, DCC's cabinet member for transport​. She shared residents’ frustration and noted many had lost faith in the bus service due to its unreliability​. Ultimately, DCC felt it had “reached the end of the line” and needed to find new operators who could run the routes on a “sustainable and reliable footing”​. While making this announcement, officials acknowledged Hulleys had “tried hard” to fix issues, but the performance remained poor​. The termination of these contracts dealt a critical blow to Hulleys’ viability, as even observers noted that removing so much work “in one go” would deeply affect the company’s finances and future​.

Operational Challenges Behind the Decline

Multiple factors contributed to Hulleys’ reliability woes. Vehicle breakdowns and staffing shortages were persistent problems. The company operates an aging bus fleet, which made mechanical defects more likely and increased the risk of service failures​. Drivers reportedly faced pressure to keep services running despite these issues and delays from roadworks often threw timetables into disarray​. In a statement last year, Hulleys cited a shortage of drivers and spare parts (due to supply-chain scarcity) and “relentless” roadworks as key reasons it struggled to run the timetable reliably​. The operator described how “incredibly bad luck” with these factors meant a route they took on in good faith “just didn’t work out”​. 

Hulleys attempted corrective measures – by late 2023 it launched a recruitment drive with higher pay and acquired additional buses to shore up its services​. Management claimed these steps had "turned the corner", reporting that by early 2024 they were operating 99.4% of scheduled mileage (a dramatic improvement from the prior autumn)​. They also mentioned gaining “access to better facilities,” which hinted at new maintenance arrangements to tackle vehicle downtime​.

Despite these efforts, any recovery appears to have been too little, too late. Reliability problems persisted into 2024, and public confidence was never fully restored. Community frustration was evident: North East Derbyshire MP Lee Rowley said residents had been “pulling our hair out” over Hulleys’ unreliable buses and that despite some brief improvements, “it’s clear that this is not working”​. By early 2025, the combination of frustrated passengers, schoolchildren left without rides and mounting complaints had eroded the company’s reputation and support. The loss of DCC contracts that followed was essentially the final straw for Hulleys’ operations.

Financial Pressures and Pandemic Aftermath

Beyond operational issues, financial difficulties played a major role in Hulleys’ collapse. Like many regional bus companies, Hulleys was hit hard by the COVID-19 pandemic. Passenger numbers plummeted during lockdowns, straining revenue for what was already a marginal business. Hulleys secured a £100,000 loan from the Northern Powerhouse Investment Fund to survive the crisis and “protect its vital service for Peak District residents”​. This 2021 injection was meant to help the company bridge the pandemic slump and prepare for an expected ridership rebound in summer 2022​. However, ridership recovery across the UK has been uneven and it’s unclear if Hulleys ever regained pre-pandemic patronage. 

By 2023-24 the firm was likely still under financial strain. Operating costs had risen – fuel prices, vehicle maintenance and driver wages all increased industry-wide, squeezing profit margins​. Meanwhile, reliability problems meant DCC withheld payments for services that didn’t run (as noted by Cllr. Cupit)​, denying Hulleys revenue even on contracted routes. The company’s decision to withdraw from certain routes (such as Service 80 (Crystal Peaks - Chesterfield) in 2024) hinted at efforts to cut losses. Hulleys admitted that route had never become “something profitable” and apologised for letting passengers down when they couldn’t make it work​. They promised to redeploy resources to improve core routes’ reliability. Despite such adjustments, the financial outlook remained dire – continuing to run half-empty buses or to breach contract standards was unsustainable. Some issues may have been self-inflicted, but others (like inflation and driver shortages) were outside management’s control​. Last week, faced with losing a large portion of its subsidised income and the costs of maintaining service, Hulleys seemingly had no viable path forward. This culminated in the decision to cease trading, with industry observers noting that “most of the issues seem to be self-inflicted” but also that the business faced multiple cost pressures beyond its control​. 

The Go-Coach Expansion and Divestment 

One of the more surprising chapters in Hulleys’ final years was its brief acquisition of another bus company – a move that, in hindsight, may have overextended the firm’s resources. In December 2023, Hulleys of Baslow purchased Go-Coach, a bus operator based in Swanley, Kent (sometimes informally referred to as “Go Bus”)​. Go-Coach is a sizable operation running 40 routes in north and west Kent​, far from Hulleys’ home turf in the Peak District. The deal was puzzling to many in the bus industry: trade press noted that Go-Coach would “retain [its] branding, fleet and staff” under the new ownership​, and the founder, Austin Blackburn, even stayed on as Engineering Director of both Go-Coach and Hulleys​. In a letter to employees, Blackburn explained he sold the company to reduce his 70-hour work weeks (though he remained involved in operations)​. Not much else changed at Go-Coach day-to-day, leading observers to wonder what Hulleys stood to gain. Some speculated the acquisition might allow Hulleys to use Go-Coach’s “better facilities” (e.g. its modern Swanley depot) to help maintain Hulley’s fleet​. Indeed, the staff letter hinted that “some of Hulleys’ engineering will be done at Swanley” – an odd arrangement given the 300+ mile round trip between Derbyshire and Kent​. The Public Transport Experience blog expressed “bewilderment at this takeover decision”, pointedly hoping that Alf Crofts (Hulleys’ owner) “hasn’t overreached himself!”​ 

Unfortunately for Hulleys, the Go-Coach venture was short-lived. Barely a year later, in February 2025, Go-Coach returned to the hands of its original owner. Austin Blackburn completed a management buyout on 28 February 2025 to regain full control of the Kent business​. Both parties presented the reversal as a positive move for Go-Coach’s stability: the company announced it was “back under local management” and even celebrated by ordering new electric minibuses for its fleet​. However, no public detail was given about why Hulleys sold Go-Coach back so quickly. The timing coincided with Hulleys’ mounting troubles at home, suggesting that financial or management pressures forced the divestment. It is possible Hulleys needed to free itself from the responsibility (and any remaining cost obligations) of the distant subsidiary as its own operation faltered. By relinquishing Go-Coach, Hulleys may have raised some cash or reduced debt, but it also meant conceding defeat on what was meant to be an expansion strategy. In hindsight, the episode underscores how stretched Hulleys had become – taking on a large additional business “with no obvious synergies” left the firm fighting on two fronts. As one forum member noted, Hulleys’ management may simply have “overreached” and the Go-Coach deal did little to solve the core problems back in Derbyshire​. 

Community Impact and Response 

The collapse of Hulleys is understandably sending ripples through the local community. For many rural villages in the Peak District, Hulleys’ buses have been a lifeline, connecting residents to jobs, schools and essential services. The sudden uncertainty over bus provision has alarmed locals and officials alike. Students and commuters are among the most affected: with routes being withdrawn, some college students service 172 (Matlock–Bakewell) worry they’ll have no way to attend courses in Chesterfield or Buxton unless a parent can drive them to an alternative bus stop​. Elderly and car-less residents in hamlets around Bakewell, Castleton and Matlock fear isolation if services disappear entirely. As one concerned resident observed, even before closure the limited schedules meant a simple hospital appointment by bus could turn into a three-bus, three-hour ordeal – and that was with Hulleys running​. A full shutdown could leave some villages with no public transport at all, unless replacement operators step in immediately.

Councillors have emphasised the human cost of losing these buses. “There is a very human element that a lot of people seem to forget”, one commenter noted regarding the situation​. DCC is urgently seeking other bus companies to take over the vacated routes​. Tenders for the four contracted routes are being fast-tracked, with hopes that new operators can be in place within weeks​. In the interim, Hulleys was expected to continue running those routes until handover​ – though whether they can maintain any service in their final days is uncertain. DCC officials also expressed hope that by shedding the contracted routes, Hulleys might at least keep its remaining commercial routes running a bit longer​. However, with the company now announcing a full closure, even those remaining services (like the company’s first, the 170 Bakewell - Chesterfield) are likely to vanish or be rescued by competitors. Neighbouring bus operators (such as High Peak Buses, TM Travel or Stagecoach) may absorb some routes or redeploy resources, but this takes time and funding. 

Many passengers are unsurprised – they saw the signs as buses frequently failed to show up. Social media forums filled with stories of missed appointments, lost jobs and daily inconvenience due to Hulleys' unreliability. That said, many Facebook posts today lament the end of a local company that, in better days, provided valued rural services. Hulleys of Baslow has a long history in the Peak District and its distinctive cream-and-blue buses have been part of the landscape for decades. For the village of Baslow, the closure is also a loss of local heritage. Employees of Hulleys are facing uncertainty as well – drivers, mechanics and office staff are losing their jobs unless they can be taken on by whichever firms replace the services. Stagecoach in Chesterfield is currently offering a £1,200 ‘welcome bonus’ for qualified PCV drivers. Hulleys' managing director, Alf Crofts, has not made extensive public statements about the closure so far, but in internal newsletters shared on Railforums he previously defended the company and chastised “rumour-mongers” for harming its reputation​. Such defensiveness suggests the closure is an especially bitter outcome for management, given their earlier confidence that they could turn things around. 

Hulleys’ Explanations vs. Local Media

Throughout this saga, Hulleys’ own statements have sometimes contrasted sharply with local media and officials’ commentary. In official press releases or announcements, the company often highlighted external challenges and its good intentions, whereas local reports emphasised Hulleys' failures to deliver. For instance, when Hulleys announced in March 2024 that it would cancel the loss-making Service 80, its statement stressed that it had only taken on the route after “nobody else was prepared to run it” and that “everyone at Hulleys worked flat out” to improve the service​. The company cited unforeseeable issues like driver shortages, scarce bus parts and endless roadworks – even attributing some problems to “incredibly bad luck” – to explain why reliability suffered​. Hulleys apologised to passengers “we’ve inconvenienced, let down, [and] disappointed” and expressed pride that they eventually improved performance after recruiting more drivers and buses​. This narrative framed Hulleys as a company doing its best in trying times, taking bold steps (like acquiring new buses and even another company) to fix issues and reluctantly retreating from a route only after exhausting options. 

Local media and officials, however, painted a more critical picture. The Derbyshire Times bluntly described Hulleys as failing to meet basic obligations, calling it a provider found to be “continually unreliable” despite council support​. Reports highlighted the real-life impacts of the company’s poor service – from stranded mothers and children to entire villages effectively cut off​. Where Hulleys spoke of industry-wide driver scarcities, the council pointed out that every missed bus was taxpayer money wasted and that they had “cut [Hulleys] so much slack” before finally pulling contracts​. An atmosphere of exasperation comes through in quotes from councillors and MPs: they detail how they pressed Hulleys for months to improve, held public forums and even rode along on problem routes – yet saw little sustained progress​. The implication in local coverage is that Hulleys' management failed to right the ship, whether due to mismanagement or inability to cope with challenges. One Derbyshire council meeting went so far as to say that as many buses were being cancelled as ran each day – an appalling record that eroded public trust​.

Even in the aftermath, there is a contrast in tone. Hulleys has not issued a detailed public “closure statement” as of the time of publication, but if their past communications are a guide, they would likely cite a combination of insurmountable challenges: funding shortfalls, driver shortages and the blow of losing DCC contracts. Local stakeholders, on the other hand, emphasise accountability – noting that plenty of other small bus companies face the same headwinds without collapsing. They point to strategic errors like taking on too much (e.g. the distant Go-Coach operation) or not investing early enough in fleet reliability. Indeed, when news of the Go-Coach takeover first broke, industry watchers questioned whether it was wise for Hulleys to acquire a company 170 miles away, hinting that management’s focus was misplaced​. Now, with Hulleys' demise, those warnings appear prescient. The company’s attempts at positive PR, such as celebrating near-full mileage operation for a week​, did little to convince locals who were experiencing daily cancellations. This disconnect between Hulley’s optimistic updates and passengers’ lived reality likely hastened the loss of goodwill. 

The closure of Hulleys of Baslow arises from a perfect storm of operational failures and financial pressures; how reliability issues and broken promises alienated the community, while the company’s own messaging cited broader challenges and last-ditch efforts to improve. The brief acquisition (and subsequent sale) of Go-Coach demonstrates the pitfalls of over-expansion – a gamble that diverted attention and possibly resources at the worst possible time. As Hulleys shuts its depot gates for the last time, the region is left to reflect on what went wrong and to quickly find ways to keep critical bus services running under new operators.

Notwithstanding my journeys with Hulleys in 2024, I’ve had many happy memories aboard their buses over the years, armed with a Derbyshire Wayfarer and a timetable book. There weren’t many operators brave enough to navigate the hairpin bend in Cresbrook with a Leyland Lynx.

All but the last two photos were taken during a depot tour in 2008.

Capacity Matters: Short Formations & Excessive Standing

The UK rail industry is often portrayed as heavily regulated, yet when it comes to train capacity—the simple matter of having enough space to board or sit—the system remains largely unaccountable to passengers. Across the country, and especially in underserved regions such as Lincolnshire and the East Riding of Yorkshire, passengers routinely find themselves standing for an hour or more, or unable to board at all due to overcrowded and short-formed trains. These are not isolated incidents, nor are they mere irritations. They are a structural failure of a system that prioritises train punctuality over passenger experience.

Today, there is no statutory requirement for operators to provide a minimum number of seats on a given service. Capacity targets exist, but they are set internally within rail contracts, not through public-facing passenger rights. In practice, a train that is short-formed—from four coaches down to two, for example—is still considered to have “run” and counts toward the operator’s performance score. As long as the service is not cancelled or delayed beyond a certain threshold, the passenger is left to absorb the inconvenience—and the discomfort—alone.

The situation in Lincolnshire exemplifies the problem. On the busy Nottingham–Lincoln route, East Midlands Railway has acknowledged that services are frequently overcrowded. Internal data from 2024 revealed that four out of five morning peak trains from Nottingham had standing passengers, and weekend services into Lincoln had more than 65 instances of “full and standing” trains reported within a matter of weeks. These are local services with limited frequency; if you’re unable to board, the next train could be an hour or more away.

In the East Riding of Yorkshire, passengers travelling from Beverley, Cottingham or Hull face similar issues. During the timetable chaos of 2018, MPs reported “overcrowded services frequently running with reduced numbers of carriages” on key Northern and TransPennine Express (TPE) routes. That pattern has persisted. During 2022–23, TPE regularly cancelled and short-formed services due to rolling stock and crew shortages. The Hull–Manchester route became notorious for forcing commuters to stand the entire way, or worse, to miss their train altogether.

Short formations are tracked within National Rail Contracts via benchmarks known as “Declared Train Capacity” (DTC). Operators are contractually obliged to meet a minimum declared capacity on nearly all services. For example, Great Western Railway reports that 99.2% of its services meet this standard, implying short formations on around 0.8% of services. When operators miss this benchmark, they are sanctioned under the contract’s Operational Performance (OP) Targets. But here lies the crux: these penalties are paid to the Department for Transport, not the passenger. They disappear into the wider funding pot—offering no redress to those left standing in a vestibule, or unable to board at all.

This differs starkly from Delay Repay, which compensates passengers for delayed journeys over a prescribed time threshold—typically 15 or 30 minutes. If a train is on time but dangerously overcrowded or short-formed, no compensation is automatically due. A passenger standing from Lincoln to Peterborough, or from Hull to Leeds, receives nothing unless their journey is delayed. And if they cannot board, it’s not officially classed as a delay unless they choose to wait for the next service, reach their destination late, and file a claim—assuming they have the time, energy, and evidence to do so. Even then, any compensation is at the train operator’s discretion—their train ran on time, remember?

This disconnect is unsustainable. While operators are rightly sanctioned for failing to provide planned capacity, the current regime lacks any direct restitution for those most affected. It is time to reform this model. Financial penalties for short-formations and chronic overcrowding must be paired with passenger-facing compensation. If the railway expects passengers to pay full fare, then those passengers should expect a basic standard of space. If that space isn’t delivered, the burden should not fall solely on the traveller.

One solution would be to mirror the logic of Delay Repay. Where operators fail to meet a defined capacity threshold—based on expected passenger numbers and historic load data—passengers could receive automatic partial refunds. Clauses such as the “Passenger in Excess of Capacity” (PiXC) targets already exist in Department for Transport contracts; these should be tied not just to internal performance metrics, but to real compensation mechanisms. PiXC already measures when loadings exceed agreed capacity, particularly in peak periods. In 2023, this occurred on more than 200 peak trains daily. That should trigger more than just internal reporting—it should activate meaningful restitution.

Some may argue that operators cannot be held responsible for every breakdown or fleet shortage. That is true. But water companies are penalised for leakage, even when external factors are involved. Energy firms are fined for service interruptions. The number of tolerable water leaks is manipulated by government-set targets for water companies. Rail should be no different. If operators routinely short-form services or run standing-room-only conditions, they must answer to both the DfT and the passenger.

Capacity must be considered an essential service standard, not a bonus. It is not enough that a train runs. It must run with enough space for those who need it. Until this principle is embedded in regulation, the passenger will continue to be the last to benefit when things go wrong.

The Creep of Misinformation & Why Buses & Trains Get It Right

It started with a text. A chirpy little message from an unknown number, claiming to be EE, asking me to reply “DOUBLE” to activate double minutes and data on my mobile plan. Suspicious, I did what any sensible person would—called EE to check. The advisor I got, stumbling through the conversation with a grasp of English that felt more decorative than functional, assured me it was a scam. Delete it, they said. So I did. Fast forward a month, and my new contract lands with a thud: half the data I’d signed up for. It turns out that text wasn’t a scam—it was a hoop I needed to jump through to unlock the headline offer I’d been sold. A hoop EE’s own advisor didn’t know existed. Welcome to the growing creep of organisations getting basic information wrong—a malaise that somehow, miraculously, doesn’t afflict the bus and rail industries.

Let’s unpack this. I’m not here to bash the advisor personally—language barriers happen—but when a company like EE, a telecoms giant with billions in revenue, can’t train its staff to spot a legitimate promotion from a phishing attempt, something’s gone off the rails. My contract promised 300GB of data. I got 150GB. Why? Because the “DOUBLE” text was a poorly explained opt-in, and the advisor’s confident fumble cost me half my allowance. When I called back last week to complain that half of my allowance was missing, the next person—a supervisor this time—apologised, fixed it, and threw in a tenner credit as a mea culpa. Fair enough, but the damage was done. Hours wasted, trust eroded, and a lingering sense that nobody at EE knows what’s what.

As I’m sure you’ll attest, this isn’t a one-off. It’s a symptom of a wider rot creeping through customer-facing organisations. Banks misquote interest rates. Energy firms botch billing cycles. Retailers advertise discounts that vanish at checkout. The thread tying these cock-ups together? A cavalier disregard for getting the basics right—whether it’s training staff, clarifying terms or just picking up the phone with a clue. Yet cast your eye over to the bus and rail sectors, and you’ll see a different story. Timetables might not always run like clockwork—delays happen—but the fundamentals? Rock solid. You won’t find a bus driver telling you the 0815 to Hull Paragon is a mirage or a train guard claiming your season pass is a scam.

Take Brlyaine Travel or East Yorkshire. When they say a service departs at 0742, that’s what’s on the board, the app, and the driver’s duty board. If a fare’s £2.50, it’s £2.50—not £1.25 unless you text “HALF” to some shadowy number. Promotions—like a £1 Holidayrider or a railcard discount—are spelled out in plain English, plastered on posters and drilled into staff. I’ve never tapped a contactless card on a bus only to find the fare’s doubled because the driver didn’t know about a “reply YES” gimmick. The systems aren’t perfect—overcrowding, cancellations, the odd broken toilet—but the information is. You know where you stand, even if it’s on a packed platform in the rain.

Why the difference? Transport’s baked-in accountability helps. Buses and trains operate in public, under scrutiny from regulators, passengers and enthusiasts who’ll howl if a route number’s wrong. Though not as religious as Brits’ obsession with the NHS, we do feel the railways are ‘ours’. EE can hide behind call centres and fine print; a bus firm can’t shrug off a missing service. If PC Coaches says the 50 stops at the High Street, it does—or they’ll hear about it. Rail franchises face penalties for misreporting performance. Accuracy isn’t optional—it’s survival. Contrast that with my EE saga, where the advisor’s blunder had no immediate consequence for them, just me staring at a throttled data cap. You’ll doubtless have your own stories.

It’s also about simplicity. Transport deals in tangible things: times, routes, fares. There’s no room for vague opt-ins or cryptic texts. When Northern runs a two-for-one deal, they don’t make you guess—it’s on the website, loud and clear. EE’s “DOUBLE” trick felt like a riddle wrapped in a sales pitch, and their own team couldn’t crack it. Bus and rail operators know their customers—tired commuters, pensioners, students—want clarity, not a treasure hunt. The InterConnect 505 doesn’t leave you wondering if it’s really the InterConnect 505!

This creeping incompetence elsewhere isn’t just annoying—it’s costly. My lost 150GB could’ve been streaming, working or tethering my laptop on a deadline. It also could have cost me significantly. Instead, I got a lesson in corporate sloppiness. And it’s not just EE. I’ve had a utility firm swear my meter reading was impossible (it wasn’t) and Tesco Bank informing me that the erroneous transfer fee would be refunded when it wasn’t. Each time, the fix comes after the faff—hours on hold, escalations, grovelling apologies. Meanwhile, I can board a Hornsbys’ 4 to Brigg with a fiver and the driver knows the change to the penny.

The lesson? Transport’s got a grip on the basics because it has to. Public exposure and practical necessity keep it honest. Other sectors—telecoms, finance, energy—could learn a trick. Train your people. Make your offers plain. Don’t leave customers guessing if your own text is a scam. Until then, I’ll take a late train over a dodgy data deal any day. At least with the train, I know what I’m getting—even if it’s 20 minutes behind schedule.

We Buy Any Bus Dot Com

I recently had the dubious pleasure of engaging with the modern-day automotive juggernaut that has single-handedly revolutionised the second-hand car market. We Buy Any Car, founded in March 2006, has become an omnipresent force in the industry, its jaunty radio jingles and daytime TV adverts reinforcing its purportedly seamless customer experience. The premise is beguilingly simple: enter your registration number, and within 60 seconds, receive an ostensibly fair valuation for your vehicle. What’s not to love?

Being something of a cynic—a predisposition I consider both necessary and advantageous—I had, until recently, exercised a healthy scepticism towards the company’s digital dominion. I had deftly sidestepped its webuyanycar.com portal for nearly two decades, preferring the more traditional, albeit flawed, route of part-exchanging my vehicles when upgrading. However, January 2025 marked a departure from my usual modus operandi when I chose to forgo the part-exchange process for my outgoing Nissan Qashqai in favour of a straight sale, having opted for a Peugeot 3008 as its replacement.

My reluctance to engage with the second-hand car market is born of bitter experience. The used car trade, particularly among small dealerships, remains a veritable minefield of deception. The time-worn assurances of "comprehensive service histories" and "meticulously maintained vehicles" are frequently nothing more than hollow platitudes, designed to obfuscate the reality of auction-sourced stock subjected to the barest minimum of refurbishment. Dealers, by necessity, are engaged in a relentless pursuit of profit margins, which invariably means investing as little as possible in a vehicle’s presentation while maximising its resale value.

This entire ordeal—an existential reckoning, if you will—inevitably forces me to ask myself, yet again, whether I truly need a car at all. The fiscal burden of ownership is eye-watering. Newer vehicles haemorrhage value at an alarming rate, whereas older models become a Sisyphean exercise in perpetual repair. Theoretically, public transport should offer a viable alternative. In reality, my circumstances dictate otherwise. The bus company local to me, while probably regarded at the zenith of it industry, simply does not align with my professional commitments, and the nearest railway station is an impractical 12 miles away.

My recent experience with We Buy Any Car recalled an intriguing initiative once proffered by Southern Vectis, the Isle of Wight’s principal bus operator. In what can only be described as an ambitious experiment in modal shift, the company briefly assumed the role of We Buy Any Car, purchasing prospective passengers' vehicles and issuing them with an annual season ticket in exchange. This initiative was partly subsidised by the residual scrap or resale value of the acquired vehicles. Of course, economic realities dictated that most participants would likely be trading in bangers or near-end-of-life vehicles worth less than or roughly equivalent to a year’s worth of unrestricted bus travel. After all, who would willingly relinquish a car worth £10,000 in exchange for a £1,000 bus pass?

I always found this strategy fascinating. On paper, it was almost certainly a loss-making venture, given the logistical complexities and administrative costs involved. Yet, it had the potential to generate long-term revenue if even a fraction of participants, having acclimatised to life without a car, opted to renew their annual bus pass once the gratis period expired. It was speculative investment in its purest form—the public transport equivalent of prescribing weight-loss injections to pre-empt the far costlier health complications associated with obesity.

Contrast this with the underhanded machinations of We Buy Any Car. My high-mileage Qashqai was valued at £828 on 28 January. By 11 February, that figure had inexplicably plummeted to £526. A precipitous drop, given that the vehicle had not spontaneously combusted in the intervening weeks. With two keys, a respectable service history, and a mere three previous owners, one would assume it had retained at least some semblance of worth. But the true pièce de résistance came during my in-person appointment. Despite all my vehicle’s attributes being validated, the sales representative coolly informed me that, owing to the presence of perfectly ordinary stone chips on the paintwork, the best she could offer was £283. This sum was only marginally above scrap value, clearly engineered to compel me into accepting rather than endure the hassle of returning home and disposing of the car myself. The entire valuation process, in my view, is nothing more than a well-orchestrated bait-and-switch. The online quote exists solely to lure customers through the door, whereupon the real negotiations begin.

To me, this is like Southern Vectis unilaterally deciding to issue its new pass holders a ticket valid for nine months instead of twelve.

Of course, We Buy Any Car operates within the confines of the law, and its practices are, strictly speaking, transparent—buried within the labyrinthine fine print of its terms and conditions. But there is no escaping the feeling of having been conned, however legally sanctioned the deception may be. Adding insult to injury, a £49.99 “administration fee” was deducted from the final offer, leaving me with a paltry £233.01. Had I known the eventual sum would be so derisory, I might have simply part-exchanged the Qashqai and hired a car for the ten days it took for the Peugeot’s inevitable clutch failure to be rectified.

And herein lies the fundamental distinction between the bus industry and the world of second-hand car sales. However imperfect the bus network may be, it does not engage in such subterfuge. One may lament unreliable timetables or grumble about occasional service disruptions, but by and large, public transport delivers precisely what it promises. A bus arrives, broadly in accordance with the published timetable, and conveys passengers to their intended destination without hidden caveats or sudden, unilateral devaluation.

I would genuinely embrace the opportunity to dispense with car ownership entirely and place my full trust in public transport. Alas, the exigencies of my circumstances render this an impossibility. Nevertheless, I envy those for whom the bus is a viable primary mode of transport. For all its perceived shortcomings, it remains an industry predicated on reliability and transparency—qualities that, as my foray into the murky world of car resales has demonstrated, are in woefully short supply elsewhere.

Kettering and Back by Bus

My local garage was unable to rectify the gearbox faults my car had developed and recommended an automatic transmission specialist in Kettering. Situated in rural Lincolnshire, I faced a journey of approximately one hour to reach the specialist, but a considerably longer return trip by public transport. Various options were available via Google’s journey planner on Google Maps, though all but one seemed unreasonably protracted.

The shortest route involved three buses and a journey time of approximately three hours. I was initially advised to board Stagecoach Midlands Service 2 from outside Kettering Hospital on Rothwell Road, travelling westward to Corby Town Centre. There, I would transfer to Stagecoach Midlands’ ‘Gold’ Service X4 to Peterborough, before making my final connection at Queensgate Bus Station onto a Delaine Buses service back to Middle England.

Although I had understood the planned itinerary, I recalled that the X4 served Kettering directly. Upon consulting Stagecoach’s timetable, I confirmed this and opted to forego the Service 2 leg, instead walking further into Kettering Town Centre to board the X4 directly to Peterborough. This adjustment saved me the £2.50 fare for Service 2, as I paid the standard £3 fare from Kettering through to Peterborough rather than from Corby.

Outbound Journey: Thursday 23 January 2025

On the morning in question, after leaving my car with Midland Automatic Transmissions Ltd, I walked into town. Google Maps estimated a 20-minute journey to the Kettering Town Centre bus interchange, which appeared to be the repurposed former Cattle Market. En route, I passed beneath the Midland Main Line and spotted a pair of Class 222s heading south. Despite a lack of signposts for the town centre, I had a clear sense of direction, crossing two major roads before reaching what Australians still refer to as the CBD. Not since A-Level Geography had I used the term ‘Central Business District’ for a town centre, particularly as, post-Covid, there has been precious little business activity here.

The final stretch was uphill, revealing the Cattle Market Bus Interchange—a well-arranged island layout with bus stops on all sides. I arrived earlier than anticipated and was able to board an X4 service an hour ahead of my planned departure. Two minutes before its scheduled 1035 departure, a Stagecoach Gold-liveried ADL Enviro400MMC, fleet number 11133 (SK68 LVE), arrived, bound for Corby.

Due to Domestic Driving Hours’ Legislation, the X4—like many longer routes—is registered in two distinct sections: Northampton–Corby and Corby–Peterborough. Operators generally indicate a necessary connection in their timetables, even if the service itself is uninterrupted. Locally, Stagecoach and Hornsbys use the phrase “Due to Department for Transport guidance…”—a convenient catch-all explanation.

The X4 operates at roughly 30-minute intervals between Northampton, Kettering and Corby. Generally, alternate services extend to Peterborough via Oundle. The weekday timetable is somewhat irregular, particularly for the Peterborough extensions, likely reflecting driver schedules, realistic running times and adjustments to mitigate persistent delays. Since the advent of live punctuality monitoring, operators have had to refine schedules to improve reliability.

Having paid my £3 fare, we departed promptly, heading north towards Corby. Upon arrival at George Street in the town centre, most passengers disembarked and a fresh group boarded. The route then took a diversion to serve Corby’s relatively new railway station, passing the local Stagecoach depot, home to a fleet of Yutong E12 electric saloons for Nuneaton depot.

The first deviation off the main road was to serve Weldon, after which we continued along the A427 to Oundle. On the approach, I noticed what appeared to be a secure Stagecoach parking facility under construction, complete with 15-foot wooden fences and barbed wire, seemingly housing double-deckers.

Arriving in Oundle ahead of schedule, several passengers—including the driver—took a quick break. From here, we ‘ran fast’ towards Peterborough, though not as swiftly as in previous years, when the route bypassed intermediate villages after Warmington Services. Nowadays, the service includes stops at Elton, Alwalton and all along the 'old road' (Oundle Road) before entering Peterborough City Centre, crossing the River Nene and serving the railway station en route to Queensgate Bus Station.

We arrived ahead of schedule, allowing a leisurely eleven-minute connection onto Delaine’s 1230 Service 101—though not quite leisurely enough for a complimentary Waitrose latte! 150 (AD61 DBL) arrived punctually, having just returned from a short-run 102 from The Deepings. The driver commented that there were roadworks on Bourges Boulevard, which were likely to delay us. Indeed, the first roundabout was being attended to by a squadron of council maintenance workers, chopping back the undergrowth, which had narrowed the carriageway to one lane, which added a good 6 minutes to our running.

The Volvo B9TL chassis was a favourite of Delaine for a number of years (with 150 being the first one purchased that was bodied by Wrightbus, entering service on 1 September 2011). By 2015, Volvo had altered its offering for the standard workhorse double-decker to the B5TL, and while Delaine acquired a number of these chassis, they were not as happy with their performance as their predecessors'. Indeed, it may even be why a decision was taken to renew the company's single-decker fleet next and ultimately adopt ADL's Enviro400MMC for their double-decker requirements from October 2023.

Like a number of smaller independents in Lincolnshire, Delaine Buses is not taking part in the government's Fare Cap Scheme, and therefore my single to Bourne was £3.70.

Despite the delay in Peterborough, I walked through my front door at 1315, just 2 hours and 40 minutes after boarding the X4 in Kettering.

Return Journey: Wednesday 29 January 2025

My return journey was less expedient. Having dropped my children at school, I made my way to Bourne Town Centre to board the 0902 Delaine 101. I was briefly concerned that the bus was running late, as tracking data showed only a northbound service at 0857. Fortunately, my fears were unfounded when Volvo B9TL/Wrightbus 152 (AD12 DBL) (the second such example purchased) arrived punctually. Paying the £3.70 single fare (Delaine does not offer period returns), we set off down the A15 via Market Deeping, Northborough and Glinton before continuing non-stop along the Werrington Parkway. This pre-0930 journey means these last few locations were passed with no-one boarding as Peterborough City Council—unlike Lincolnshire County Council—restricts use of English National Concessionary Travel Scheme passes before 0930 on weekdays.

Upon arrival in Peterborough, I seized the opportunity to claim my free Waitrose coffee—an amenity recently extended to all 'myWaitrose' members without requiring a purchase.

Returning to Queensgate, I noted a change that was the result of the partial closure of the Bus Station, which took place two years ago to facilitate the conversion of the former John Lewis store into an IMAX cinema. As a result, Service X4 now shares Bay 9 with Delaine’s Service 201 to Bourne via Stamford, although their departures do not appear to conflict. (Previously the X4 used Bay 15.) However, as previously mentioned, the weekday timetable for the X4 is not based on an exact hourly pattern. The departures so far today had been at 0717, 0802, 0832, 0902, with my journey scheduled for 1017, which was only booked to travel as far as Corby. Subsequent departures became slightly more regular at 1132, 1232, 1332, followed by 1457, 1605, 1652 (terminating at Corby). Later services included departures at 1752, 1902, 1942 (terminating at Kettering), 2032 (Kettering), 2112, & 2337 (also terminating at Kettering).

The bus was 11127 (SK68 LUY), a similar ADL Enviro400MMC to the one I had taken on my outward trip. The "gold" specification for this service includes high-backed leather seating, although in both cases, the interiors were beginning to show signs of wear. This particular vehicle also had visible specks of white paint on some seats which, while seemingly dry, looked rather unsightly. It was unclear how frequently Stagecoach carried out deep cleaning, but it was evident that 11127 was overdue for one.

We departed Bay 9 punctually and made our way via Oundle Road, picking up a number of passengers making short local trips to the Thorpe Wood Business Park. After a brief scheduled pause at Elton, we continued along the A605 towards Oundle, where I spotted what appeared to be a vintage bus stop flag and pole in the Market Place. From there, we proceeded cross-country to Weldon before ultimately arriving at George Street in Corby Town Centre. Although all journeys on this route are shown as terminating at Corby, this particular service appeared to finish its run here, with a fresh journey scheduled to commence from the opposite stop at 1149.

 Congestion at George Street, Corby.

Google Maps had calculated that, even if the next X4 departure was operated by the same bus, the required 20-minute connection time, combined with the additional walk from the Cattle Market Bus Interchange to the industrial area where my car was located, would take longer than an alternative route. Instead, it suggested taking Service 2 at 1146 from Corby to Kettering, a journey that would cost £2.50.

Opting for this alternative, I boarded vehicle 19091 (MX56 PHA), a former Manchester-allocated ADL Trident/ADL Enviro400. However, just before it was able to pull up alongside Stop A, the very same X4 I had previously disembarked arrived and commenced its next run to Northampton. Given that this was scheduled to depart three minutes after my bus, I remained vigilant, half expecting the driver of the number 2 to take an impromptu decision and bypass the stop altogether. Thankfully, he adhered to the timetable, though he did pull up at an earlier stop, requiring me and two other passengers to cross a side road to board.

Choosing to sit at the front of the upper deck for the journey to Rothwell Road, I observed the route’s deviations from the main road. The service makes two such diversions, first to serve the expansive Oakley Vale estate and then to pass through Great Oakley. Thereafter, it follows a direct, non-stop route along the A6003 and A43 before entering Kettering from the west. Although Google Maps had suggested disembarking at the first stop on Rothwell Road, I suspected the second stop, opposite the hospital, would be more convenient due to a nearby pedestrian cut-through. My instincts proved correct, and I left the bus at 1212.

The entire journey from my departure in Bourne to my arrival in Kettering had taken three hours and ten minutes—half-an-hour longer than my outward trip and costing £2.50 more—but given the available options at that particular time of day, it was the most efficient choice.

It is still possible to travel through rural England during the off-peak on double-decker buses. Delaine's faired a little older, being fourteen and thirteen years' old respectively, but modern double-decker comfort has plateaued over the last few years and sat upstairs in the middle, there's precious little difference in ride quality between any vehicle really. Delaine's buses had traditional bus seats, which in my opinion for a 40-minute bus journey, should be more substantial. But this bus ride necessary was very enjoyable and set me back a total £15.90, which is absolutely nothing compared to what my car's repair cost!

Grimsby and Back

Recently I was nominated to collect the LEYTR magazines from the printer and so decided to make the journey by public transport. This was an environmentally sound decision, of course, but rather ignored that fact that it is inhumanly possible to carry the many hundreds of copies by hand! I had to think on my feet and enlist the help of others, but that dear reader, is another story.

Based on the assumption that the very raison d'être of my plan wasn't flawed, I headed out to Grantham railway station where I boarded the 1020 LNER service to York. It was formed of a 9-car all-electric Class 801 Azuma. This was, I think, the first time in years I'd boarded a LNER service devoid of seat reservation; I'd hoped that on the shoulder of the morning peak (if such a thing still exists), I'd not need one and indeed this proved to be the case.

We actually had dwell at at Platform 2 before we departed for the spirited run north. Calling at Newark Northgate and Retford, we didn't attract many additional passengers and I alighted at Plaform 8 in Doncaster at 1103. I'd consigned myself to a 34-minute wait here for the 1137 Cleethorpes train, but while sat in the waiting room listening to my podcast I spotted a TransPennine Express Class 185 arriving at the adjacent Platform 4.

A quick check of Realtime Trains showed this was the 1037 Cleethorpes train running hellishly late, so I bolted out and was able to catch the train by the skin of my teeth. It was formed of just one three-car Class 185 (most now are two set, six-car formations) and annoyingly the universal toilet was locked out of use and the 'space saver' loo had no toilet paper! The guard was unable to remedy the problem and didn't seem willing or able to force the out of use universal loo doors open to acquire some toilet paper for the other toilet. 

There were 9 of us on board as we progressed between Scunthorpe and Barnetby and I had considered staying on board to Cleethorpes and doubling back to the printer's shop, but instead alighted at Grimsby Town and had a slow wander to the Riverhead Exchange bus terminal. 

In early September, akin with much of the wider industry, service reductions have taken place here, with 12-minute frequencies being reduced to a bus every 15 minutes. Services 3 & 4 are two inter-worked services so affected, and I boarded the 1220 departure on Service 3 bound for Cleethorpes Pier. I enquired whether it would be cheaper to purchase two singles or a Dayrider, and was informed that the price was the same, so opted for a £3.60 Grimsby/Cleethorpes Dayrider to save making another transaction on my return journey.

Gone are the days of Grimsby having the cheapest bus fares in the country! £1.80 for a single to Humber Street, one stop beyond Riby Square. In 1991 the fare was 36p. We left with a decent load - although it looked a decent load as we were in a 38-seater Dart, time was of course, this would have been an Alexander ALX400-bodied Trident or Dennis Dominator/East Lancs interspersed with a 45-seater Dennis Lance and pre-1993 a Leyland Fleetline. We are where we are of course, and the service was quick and efficient, the driver polite and informative.

Heading back to the town centre, and having spent considerably longer than I'd intended acquiring the magazines (which involved a number of hurried phone calls to very kind souls who offered assistance), I boarded the first bus to arrive at the opposing bus stop. The next bus information screens are very useful - just as well as timetables were removed from all bus stops in North East Lincolnshire at the start of the pandemic. While I could see when my next bus would arrive, and its number and destination, there was diddly-squat about its route and journey time.

It was a very busy ADL 'Dart' again, which thinned out along Freeman Street. It was pleasing to see people still frequenting this second business district which has, for decades, been a shadow of its former self. Twenty years ago there was a Marks & Spencer here; today the big draw is a Boyes and the still thriving Freeman Street Indoor Market. My mother used to work at a fish and chip shop in Freeman Street, which I spotted was now a 'trendy' coffee shop.

Having left my Service 3 bus at the Bethlehem Street stop adjacent to the railway station, I made a quick dash into the precinct for lunch and then back to the railway station. Such is the way of life now that the toilets on Platform 1 have a combination lock and the code needs to be requested from booking office staff. The station buffet sells local Stokes coffee (which is my father's favourite), so after a quick trip here I headed to Platform 2 for the 1334 Manchester Piccadilly train, formed of two Class 185s. We departed punctually and I left at Doncaster. Getting six cars on Platform 3 behind the mid-platform starting signal is a tight fit.

There were 'residual delays' affecting southbound ECML services so my LNER at 1447 arrived a few minutes late, but again formed of a 9-car Azuma, we were soon away, and the first stop on this particular journey was Grantham, where I alighted in a light monsoon and was thoroughly drenched walking to the car. 

It was a very enjoyable trip, despite my self-inflicted faux pas. I'd like to do it again, when it's LEYTR collection time but it won't physically be possible on my lonesome with so many magazines to collect. My outward trip, thanks to the delayed 1037 Doncaster-Cleethorpes service, meant I undertook Grantham-Grimsby Town in 1:43 - something of a record via this route. Trains were spotless and empty. It is clear to see why government is having to underwrite franchises to the tune of hundreds of millions of points every few months.

Isle of Wight, Summer 2021

I last visited the Isle of Wight during a Railrover in 2005. It was a fleeting visit, involving a trip along the full length of the Island Line, from Ryde Pier Head to Shanklin. There I walked to the town’s bus station and caught a bus direct to Yarmouth before heading to Lymington by boat and travelling aboard a 3-CIG (Class 421). I’ll be honest, my impression of the Island was nondescript – I wasn’t left with any lasting memory other than the 1938 Stock (Class 483) ex-London Underground trains that worked the Island Line being not at all comfortable or practical and I suspect those who had to rely on them for their daily commute would have much preferred a Pacer.

Sixteen years later I took advantage of the very low prices initially offered by the hospitality sector upon publication of the government’s ‘roadmap’ out of perpetual lockdown in February. Three nights overlooking the English Channel in a family room for £105 wasn’t to be sniffed at, and coupled with the planned introduction of newer stock to the Island Line, I could sample the new Vivarail Class 484 ex-District Line Tube trains at the same time.

The Needles

Sadly the latter didn’t come to pass, as the line’s planned reopening at Easter was delayed until ‘later in the summer’ as the new ‘484s’ were having technical problems and Vivarail graciously admitted full responsibility for the delay while it ironed out the problems. Speculation continues to be made concerning what ‘later in the summer’ meant, and inferences have been drawn over the expiry date of the replacement bus timetable on the National Rail website; initially this showed 31 July 2021, but was amended to 31 August 2021, and as I write much discussion online suggests the Island Line will be up and running from 1 September. Yet speaking to a passenger at a bus stop on my second day on the Island, he told me a contact of his who is directly involved in resolving the technical problems believes trains won’t be running until ‘October at the earliest’ and assumed the replacement bus timetable expiry would simply be amended again.

From my observations of the replacement buses, journeys are provided by Xelabus and Portsmouth City Coaches, the latter using ex-Centrebus Scania ‘deckers – one not only still wears its former operator’s orange, white and purple livery, but still bears the Centrebus fleet name above the driver’s cab despite having been acquired in 2019. There are two replacement bus timetables – one is from Ryde Pier Head, the location at which the Fastcat from Portsmouth Harbour docks, to Ryde Esplanade, where the town’s bus station is situated and the other is from Ryde Esplanade to Shanklin, following the line of route taken by Island Line trains as much as possible (only Smallbrook Junction is omitted). In a number of cases the location of the replacement bus stop is more central to the towns and villages than the station (Brading, Sandown). Frustratingly, the timetable on the official South Western Railway website is wrong – it shows the off-season timetable, with an hourly frequency along the Ryde Esplanade–Shanklin route – when in reality since May there are two buses an hour, matching that of the trains (improving it even as the distribution of Island Line services is at 20/40-minute intervals, rather than evenly spaced 30/30 intervals). One other thing to note is that while a timetable does exist between Ryde Pier Head–Ryde Esplanade I never saw a bus travelling along the Pier; I did, however, see a procession of private hire taxis bearing Island Line A4 paper logos affixed to their passenger seat windows. It could be taxis on a demand-responsive basis provide the timetable here.

Last year’s holiday was to Edinburgh and it’s easy to forget just how well connected Lincolnshire is to the Scottish capital thanks to the ECML. Even with a change at Newark Northgate, the kids and I reached Edinburgh from Grantham in just over four hours. It would take almost 50% longer to reach Sandown. That said, the journey was simple enough: LNER Grantham–London King’s Cross, Undergroung to London Waterloo, SWR to Portsmouth & Southsea and Hovertravel to Ryde Hoverport. There is a half-hourly Hoverbus transfer, linking Portsmouth & Southsea station (and other central terminals) to the Southsea Hoverport, so actually reaching the Isle of Wight is relatively straightforward enough.

Stagecoach in Portsmouth provide this Enviro200 for use as the Hoverbus

Although having to book seats to travel with LNER is a pain (the train in front of ours was shown as having no seat reservations applied), we found our seats empty and upon sorting ourselves out were offered complimentary breakfast by the on-board hosts. We arrived in the Capital punctually and a nice touch by LNER appeared to be a member of staff stood by every door as we alighted. The Underground route to Waterloo was simple enough – we could change at Euston or Warren Street and I opted for the latter as the station is quieter. Our SWR ‘444’ to Portsmouth Harbour was shortformed of just 5 coaches, so things were a little cosy, but having boarded at the first stop we were able to be seated. The air-conditioning was working well and engineering work meant we omitted Woking. We almost missed the Hoverbus, however, as it appeared to leave two minutes early (ex-Portsmouth & Southsea station at xx12/xx42 past each hour) and it undeniably started to depart at xx10, but the driver – dressed in what would soon become apparent as Hovertravel uniform – graciously stopped and allowed us to board.

Southsea Hoverport is subsumed in a bustling seafront comprising traditional arcades and rides and my kids would have preferred to have caught a much later crossing, but laden with bags and a suitcase they were overruled and we showed our tickets to the Isle of Wight.

Seating within the hovercraft is not dissimilar to larger aircraft, with two outlying rows of 2 seats and a central row of 3 seats

At this point I should point out that a return crossing (with the return portion valid anytime within 1 month of the outward crossing) costs £29 if booking from Hovertravel direct. The bus transfer – provided by Stagecoach in Portsmouth, using an ADL E200 in a special all-over livery – is £2.20, yet a Portsmouth & Southsea to Ryde St John’s Road return train ticket whose route is ‘via Hoverlink service’ is £26.50 and includes travel on the Hoverbus. The option to book to Ryde Esplanade is not possible, so I chose the next stop along the Island Line (St John’s Road). If you were to visit for just one day an even better option exists – buy from any Stagecoach in Portsmouth bus for unlimited travel thereon, plus a day return using the Hovertravel service and unlimited travel on all Southern Vectis buses on the Island for just £23.50. My version, however, required me to then purchase a single Ryde St John’s Road to Sandown and an equivalent in reverse on the day we left, for use on the much more direct replacement bus service.

I don’t recall ever travelling on a hovercraft before (maybe I did as a child) and as we left Southsea and hovered atop the Solent, I couldn’t help but think of the short-lived hovercraft service from Grimsby Docks to Hull in the late-1960s; trials took place from Cleethorpes beach, but the service was a flop owing to the strong currents in the Humber Estuary and persistent damage to the crafts. There appeared to be two vessels on hand for our journeys to/from the Isle of Wight – the Island Flyer and the Solent Flyer. Both our crossings saw us use the Island Flyer, which was immaculately clean inside and attentive crew ensured the boarding process was straightforward.

I showed my train tickets to the attendant at Southsea and she stamped them with a very large HOVERTRAVEL red stamp and we were directed to the departures area, from where it became immediately noticeably that a craft was incoming. It reminded me of the scene just over half way in the movie The Lost World (Jurassic Park) in which an Ingen ship containing a T-Rex was headed for the dock in San Diego, only for it to sail at full speed into the pontoon. I suppose the hovercraft did collide with land, in a control manner, but none of its crew had inexplicably been eaten by a dinosaur that was still contained within the ship’s hold. Our crossing wasn’t as smooth as it could have been and I suspect that sitting in the middle section of seats would make turbulence a little less obvious. I used an app on my phone to triangulate our position using GPS and thus calculate our speed – we were attaining 22mph for much of the trip.

Upon arrival at Ryde Hoverport, literally sandwiching the Island Line with the bus station, the lack of trains was evident as the railhead looked rusty. Crossing a footbridge was the obvious way to reach the bus station, from where the replacement bus departed. This would also have been required had our final leg been undertaken on the forthcoming ‘484s’. A lengthier route is possible for those unable to manage steps, using the small coach park.

It wasn’t immediately clear from where the replacement bus left, though I assumed it was the Xelabus-liveried Scania N94UD/East Lancs in the corner. A trip to the bus station enquiry office bore fruit as I was informed by the lady there that the Xelabus ‘decker was indeed the rail replacement service, and she also directed me to the enormous box of timetable booklets for the Southern Vectis operation during the summer period. This booklet was instrumental in planning our short break here and it is clear that Southern Vectis ‘gets it’, and is willing to reintroduce printed timetables en mass, despite the manner in which this has been treated during the pandemic.

Only the Centrebus fleet name from above the door had been removed (and not very well at that); the one above the driver's cab was still extant

A collection of drivers had gathered around the front of the Xelabus and we were directed on board. The bus left a couple of minutes late and operated via St John’s Road, the next stop along the Island Line, from where an old 1938 Stock train could be seen alongside a D-Stock (Class 484). Smallbrook Junction isn’t served by the replacement bus – a shame since this is a very convenient connection for the Isle of Wight Steam Railway. We alighted in Sandown some distance from the station: our driver confirmed this was the stop because reaching the station was too tight for a full-size bus. This did us a favour as we had less far to walk to the hotel.

All in all our entire journey took under 6 hours, undoubtedly aided by the very efficient connections at Portsmouth and Ryde; I was mindful that it wouldn’t have taken much to significantly extend the journey time.

***

The Needles Landmark Attraction has a bus turning circle that also acts as the terminus for Services 7 & 12, with the Needles Breezer and the Island Coaster passing through. Assistance is on hand in the form of staff employed by the attraction as traffic became hellishly bad

Returning some days later saw us board one of the ex-Centrebus Scania ‘deckers, operated by Portsmouth City Coaches, on the rail replacement bus service from Sandown Broadway to Ryde bus station. This bus was atrocious to travel in – there was no sponge in the seats, cloth directly covered plastic. I did muse just which was more uncomfortable, my 2005 journey aboard a 1938 Stock or this journey. I think it was a tie. We headed directly to the Hovercraft terminal and saw Solent Flyer depart seconds after Island Flyer arrived. Two departures per hour were timetabled, though no sooner had we arrived in the terminal than we were ushered to Island Flyer (having shown our tickets) as it was ready to depart. We left eight minutes after the previous departure, with 19 on board, and it became apparent that Hovertravel had effectively suspended its scheduled timetable and were running both craft to and fro in order to meet demand, which appeared to be from the mainland to the Island. Around five minutes out from Southsea, Solent Flyer could be seen headed back to the Island fully loaded and upon our arrival there were plenty waiting to board.

Leaving Southsea Hoverport, access to the Hoverbus service is located immediately outside. Departures claim to tie-in with hovercraft arrivals, but since craft were running as required this wasn’t strictly true. But having saw awaiting departure for just two minutes, the engine started and we were off towards Portsmouth City Centre. We could have left at The Hard Interchange, adjacent to Portsmouth Harbour station, as this was the first station on our next journey, but we stayed on to Portsmouth & Southsea, so we could undertake the full, circular route. Our SWR Class 444 to Waterloo was correctly formed of two units and the journey was straightforward and we arrived in London on time. Our Underground trip to King’s Cross was diverted via the Hermanos Columbian coffee shop in London Victoria, from where, rather than board another Tube, we caught a 390 bus bound for Archway, alighting outside St. Pancras. How long has it been since Service 73 was curtailed to terminate at Oxford Circus? We boarded a Lincoln-bound Azuma and the pre-booked seats system went as smooth as possible.

***

A number of Southern Vectis's vehicles are blue with Vectis Blue fleet names, that seem to suggest their use is more for the southern routes around the coast. This was out first bus of the holiday, to The Needles from Sandown

While staying on the Isle of Wight, we made a number of trips, visiting many locations. From a bus perspective we made use of the thrice-daily, closed-top Island Coaster service, some of whose bus stops displayed Island Breezer, implying that in times past this route was topless. The route links Ryde with Yarmouth in a clockwise fashion, calling at Sandown, Shanklin, Ventnor and The Needles and offered, as its page in Southern Vectis’s timetable booklet suggested, stunning views of the island coastline. Hills are aplenty, especially down to Shanklin seafront and seemingly from all directions into Ventnor. 

The Needles Breezer at journey's end in Yarmouth

We caught the Needles Breezer from The Needles Landmark Visitor Centre up to the Needles Battery and it’s quite a journey. To my regret and eternal shame, this open-top route had never featured on my radar. From the Visitor Centre, the route uses a bus-only road and negotiates two hair-pin bends to reach the top of the outcrop, at which the new Battery is located and from where you can walk down to the iconic former Battery and see up close the multiple rocks jutting off the mainland into the sea. The Needles Breezer’s route starts in Yarmouth and undertakes a one-way route to the Needles Visitor Centre; having then completed the most interesting section, buses return to Yarmouth via a more linear route. Automated announcements are made on board. Three buses appeared to work the half-hourly service.

The other open-top route, the Downs Breezer, takes in a large circular route from Ryde to Sandown, heading anti-clockwise inland and across the Downs, offering spectacular views of the Island’s largest hills. Very comprehensive automated commentary is offered, and all manner of details of the Island’s history are given – some aspects are not for the faint-hearted. Unlike all the other routes we used, the Down’s Breezer has a serious problem with punctuality, seemingly always fifteen minutes later by Sandown. From here it heads north to Ryde via the coast, taking in the north west coastline.

Aboard the Downs Breezer heading from Sundown to Ryde

We used some standard routes, generally operated by ADL Enviro400s and Scania double-deckers, from Newport to Sandown (Service 8, whose next stop announcements stated a bus stop called Hairpin Bend (it was a rather tight corner!)), Yarmouth to Newport (Service 7) and Ryde to Newport via Sandown, Shanklin and Ventnor (Service 3). The latter was of most interest as it appeared to be the most spectacular in terms of hills and bends. Heading north from Ventnor to Newport Service 3 takes in a number of hairpin bends on steep hills, one having a dip immediately before it, necessitating the driver to counter-intuitively reduce speed to prevent the bus grounding, then being left to floor it from an almost-standing start. The bus kicked down impressively, giving the impression it was offering all it could in first gear and we ascended the hill without issue. 

One of the most frequent routes is Service 9, linking Ryde with Newport every 10 minutes

Meeting buses coming in the opposite direction is likely to cause problems, as standard routes operate every 30 minutes. From Newport do you find the most frequent services, to Cowes (Service 1) and Ryde (Service 9) running every 10 minutes.

There are a few, newer Enviro400MMCs in operation, this being allocated to what was one of my favourite inland routes, Service 3, seen at Ryde bus station

Body damage seemed minimal, which genuinely surprised me. I suppose you get used to the terrain and topography, but even so there is clearly an additional layer to skill required to undertake these routes on a daily basis.

Everything slows when a bus meets oncoming traffic, including this route that has a white line down the middle

The Southern Vectis timetable book offered full details of the network’s Rover tickets. There are two types – one excluding the Breezer open-toppers and one including them. I opted for a 48-hour ticket inclusive of the Breezers, and since my children are under 10, it was cheaper to buy theirs individually, rather than a Group ticket. £16 adult and £8 child for 48 hours’ travel on all Southern Vectis routes seemed decent value for money and the 48-hour period was specifically that; we bought ours on Monday at 0904 and ticket expiry stated Wednesday at 0903, technically allowing more than 48-hour use provided you boarded your final bus before the time was up. I purchased from the driver who dutifully laminated them each in a wallet. It is possible to purchase the full range of Southern Vectis tickets via the company’s mobile app.

To the NRM at York

The following post was intended for publication in the latest magazine but was ousted due to a lack of space.

During the last fifteen months or so, my leisure travel by train has been significantly reduced. I managed a few mini breaks last summer to Edinburgh, Norfolk and Southwell, which necessitated a fair amount of rail travel (my last journey of note was to visit my brother in Garforth near Leeds, during which I sampled one of TransPennine Express’s new Class 802s, travelled in one of their new Mk 5 coaches (hauled by a Class 68 loco) and made my first visit aboard one of Northern’s new Class 195 DMUs), but very little since – after all, for many months such journeys have been deemed illegal. This would change in June when the kids and I planned a trip to the National Railway Museum (NRM) in York.

‘Planned’ is the operative word, as such trips cannot be made spontaneously – not any more. I fear this ‘new normal’ is here to stay. LNER introduced reservation-only travel early on, as part of the reduced Coronavirus timetable and seem very keen to maintain this prohibitive restriction. The NRM is urging people to book their visit using its website, and to choose a 30-minute arrival window. Entry to the NRM continues to be free and LNER was offering a good selection of Advance fares aboard its trains, with the cost fluctuating with popular journeys. Booking seats with LNER last summer was a farce; the allocated seats assumed all three in my party were strangers and had to be sat 2 meters apart; hence the kids and I were allocated three separate tables each in coach L in LNER’s Mk 4 stock when we travelled to Edinburgh. This seems to have now been overcome, with sensible allocations seeing us positioned round a table in each direction.

We booked on the 1219 York service from Grantham on Saturday 26 June. Our train was shown On Time until a pair of Colas Rail Class 37s top ‘n’ tailing a Network Rail train stopped at Platform 2 for a crew change (37057+37254). Entertainingly, the relief driver assumed the train would be routed via Platform 4, and so accordingly positioned himself there, only to get quite a shock when the train stopped on the Down Main! Aboard 801204 we departed 5 minutes late and I was heartened at how well the reservation system had worked. The electronic seat reservation indicators were blank and passengers were simply trusted to sit in their allotted seats – we had no need to ask people to move. As this train was a ‘York terminator’ it wasn’t as heavily loaded as a through service to Leeds or Edinburgh and we made good time, arriving York just two minutes down.

York station is littered with social distancing signage, as is the short walk to the NRM that is effectively next door. We were greeted by one of the Museum’s representatives who guided us in as we had arrived within our allotted window. The email confirmation I’d been sent comprised a QR code that was scanned by the person manning the ticket desk and we were admitted entry. Only now did it become clear that our three-hour stay before our booked train home would be rather difficult to fill. Many exhibitions were closed – some rather vaguely due to ‘Coronavirus’, others due to ‘additional storage’ or ‘staff availability’. All that was open were the two main halls. The Mallard Simulator and a couple of circuits aboard the miniature railway (the only exterior event in operation on a Saturday in June!) had to be pre-booked and were fully taken for the day. While the Mallard Simulator seemed very lightly patronised, the lady manning its desk said ‘fallow time’ was needed in between sessions.

But perhaps worst of all was the model railway exhibition – the highlight of my kids’ day (they vividly remembered it being the best thing here when we last visited two years ago). The advertised five different operational trains were not in evidence at all. The only movement that was seen in three hours was a Class 08 shunter that moved out from a tunnel for five feet, stopped and then reversed back into the darkness. With a brave face, I aimed to make the most of what was open to us and it was great to be reacquainted with some very significant and renowned trains – including GWR’s HST that was painted in the original ‘Flying Banana’ livery, despite it being forbidden to stand on any footplates or enter any coaches.

Fortuitously, however, while in the play area adjacent to the miniature railway, we saw that trains departed every ten minutes and that people were not arriving for their booked slot. We therefore chanced our arm and made representation to the two very well-spoken men who were providing the service and had something of a highlight when we were afforded a trip aboard the last departure of the day at 1540. There were Perspex shields between each of the five coaches and the two men were very visibly undertaking a thorough cleaning regime between trips. A figure-of-eight circuit is undertaken and the kids had a great time (as did I when I realised we’d sidestepped the £3-per-person fee).

Back at York station, I commented to my son that the blue façade of the Costa coffee outlet was unique in Britain (all others are red). He claimed one at Newark Northgate station was blue, but I dismissed this as he’s only seven and has never shown an interest in coffee. Yet while changing trains at Newark Northgate on our return journey (our 9-car Azuma (801220) working the 1635 London King’s Cross omitted Grantham so we left at Newark for the 1755 London train that started at Lincoln, formed of 800201) he took great delight in pointing out the… blue Costa coffee façade on Platform 1! This was probably the most memorable part of the day.

York

Newark Northgate

It was great to be out and about by train again, and the kids thoroughly enjoyed themselves (being, thankfully, far less aware of the state of play at the NRM that I was). LNER’s trains were punctual, clean and the seat reservation system worked well. People were travelling in quite considerable numbers, which was good to see. If anyone had concerns with hygiene aboard trains or within the NRM I can state categorically these areas are well in-hand. It’s just a shame that, when asked, my daughter’s favourite part of the day was the train ride home.

Until the remaining Coronavirus restrictions are lifted in full, and until those who’ve been double-vaccinated are no longer required to self-isolate if they catch a cold and therefore display one of the main Coronavirus symptoms, a trip to an establishment such as the NRM is likely to be marred with disappointment, either due to the possible over-zealous enforcement of guidelines or a lack of facilities due to too few staff being available.